Ardvreck Castle ruins on Loch Assynt, Sutherland

Discovering the Far North and Wester Ross from Inverness

North and west of Inverness, the Highlands open into a different kind of scenery altogether — sea cliffs, ancient sea caves, ruined coastal strongholds, and lochs, glens and mountains that look more like sculpture than landscape. This is Caithness, Sutherland and Wester Ross: a panorama of everything Scotland is famous for, all within a few days driving of the city.

Much of this ground is covered by the North Coast 500, and there's no shortage of operators offering to drive you round it. What follows here isn't the full circuit, but my own selection of the sites along this route that I like to stop at — and a private, historian-guided tour over five days covering these places, built at a deliberately slower pace than most.


Places I like to visit around Caithness, Sutherland and Wester Ross

  • Dornoch: A picturesque cathedral town on the Dornoch Firth, with a medieval sandstone cathedral and a quiet, historic town centre.
  • Dunrobin Castle: The largest and grandest castle in the Highlands, with formal gardens overlooking the Dornoch Firth.
  • Carn Liath Broch: A well-preserved, two-thousand-year-old Iron Age broch, its drystone walls still standing to a remarkable height.
  • Whaligoe Steps: 365 hand-cut stone steps descending a dramatic cliff face to a hidden harbour below.
  • Castle Sinclair Girnigoe: The dramatic clifftop ruin of the Earls of Caithness, perched on a narrow headland above the North Sea near Wick.
  • John o' Groats: The traditional "end of the road" from Land's End, with views out across the Pentland Firth to Orkney.
  • Dunnet Head: The true northernmost point of mainland Britain, with a lighthouse and sweeping coastal views.
  • Tongue: A small Highland village, in the heart of Clan Mackay territory, framed by the mountains of Ben Loyal and Ben Hope.
  • Smoo Cave: One of the largest sea caves in Britain, cut into the limestone at Durness, with a waterfall dropping into its inner chamber.
  • Ardvreck Castle: The evocative ruin of a Clan Macleod stronghold on the shores of Loch Assynt, framed by some of the oldest mountains in Europe.
  • Knockan Crag: A National Nature Reserve where the visible rock strata transformed our understanding of how mountains form, with a short trail and views over the Coigach and Assynt hills.
  • Corrieshalloch Gorge: A mile-long box canyon crossed by a Victorian suspension bridge, with the Falls of Measach dropping 45 metres below.
  • Gruinard Bay: A sweep of pink sand and turquoise water, with views out toward the Summer Isles.
  • Inverewe Garden: A sub-tropical garden at 58 degrees north, made possible by the Gulf Stream, on a peninsula in Loch Ewe.
  • Loch Maree: One of Scotland's most beautiful lochs, dotted with ancient pine-covered islands beneath the slopes of Slioch.
  • Torridon: Among the oldest mountains on Earth, rising almost sheer from sea level in dramatic isolation.
  • Shieldaig: A pocket-sized fishing village on Loch Torridon, with a pine-covered island just offshore.

How to explore the Far North and Wester Ross

All of these locations can be explored independently by car — with only light walking required to reach most sites — if you have the time to plan the logistics and don't mind long single-track sections of road. A number of tour operators also offer small-group tours covering the North Coast 500.

I offer a curated 5 Day Far North and Wester Ross Private Tour from Inverness — a fully private, historian-guided route that covers most of the sites listed above and a large part of the North Coast 500 without attempting every mile of it. I leave out the Stoer and Applecross peninsulas deliberately, both of which add significant time on the busiest single-track sections of the route. That keeps daily driving distances short and leaves more time out of the vehicle at each stop, rather than a full circuit squeezed into five days — with no earlier than a 9am start, and typically at our accommodation by 4 or 5pm for a proper, relaxed evening.

5 Day Far North and Wester Ross Private Tour

Available from March to October, this private tour covers Caithness, Sutherland, and Wester Ross.

  • Day 1: Inverness to Wick — The three firths, Dornoch, Dunrobin Castle and gardens, Carn Liath broch, and the harbour of Latheronwheel.
    Overnight: Wick
  • Day 2: Wick to Tongue — Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, John o' Groats, the Duncansby sea stacks, Dunnet Head, and the scenic northern coast road.
    Overnight: Tongue
  • Day 3: Tongue to Ullapool — Ben Loyal and Ben Hope, Smoo Cave at Durness, the wild scenery of Assynt, Ardvreck Castle, and Knockan Crag.
    Overnight: Ullapool
  • Day 4: Ullapool to Gairloch — Corrieshalloch Gorge, Gruinard Bay, and Inverewe Garden at Poolewe.
    Overnight: Gairloch
  • Day 5: Gairloch to Inverness — Loch Maree, Glen Torridon, Shieldaig, and Lochcarron, before our return journey east.

Private Tour Pricing

  • 5 Day Far North and Wester Ross Tour — £4200

What's included in the tour price?

Tours are exclusively for your private group only (up to 3 persons) and prices are per tour. I only offer private tours and do not combine individuals or separate groups – if your group size is less than 3 the advertised tour price still applies. Your private tour price includes:

  • Private tour for your group only (1, 2 or 3 persons)
  • An experienced driver-guide and historian (John Alasdair Macdonald)
  • A comfortable tour vehicle with good visibility and generous legroom
  • All taxes and fees

What's excluded?

The tour price does not include your accommodation, entrance fees or meals and refreshments.

Where should I book accommodation?

To make the most of your tour I recommend you book accommodation in:

  • Wick (Day 1)
  • Tongue (Day 2)
  • Ullapool (Day 3)
  • Gairloch (Day 4)

Whilst I do not book accommodation directly, I am always happy to offer advice on where to stay and eat. Your tour quote will include a list of recommended accommodation options for our overnight locations along with suggestions for evening meals.

Is this a North Coast 500 tour?

This tour covers a large part of the North Coast 500 route, though it does not include the Stoer or Applecross peninsulas. These are left out deliberately, to keep daily mileage low and the pace genuinely relaxed rather than a full circuit squeezed into five days.

What about the pace?

Deliberately slower and more relaxed than a full North Coast 500 circuit. Days start no earlier than 9am, and we're typically back at our accommodation by 4 or 5pm, leaving a proper, relaxed evening rather. Short daily driving distances mean plenty of time out of the vehicle at each stop too.

What will the weather be like?

The Scottish Highlands and Islands are renowned for changeable weather, and even in the summer months we may experience some rain or wind. I always recommend a light waterproof jacket and comfortable footwear suitable for short walks in wet or uneven terrain. Please note that for tours in March, April and October, the weather can be more inclement with rain and wind more common. Most of the itinerary is still accessible during these months. On tours where an itinerary attraction is unavailable to explore we visit alternative locations.

How do I enquire about the tour?

The first step is simply to email me directly at info@thehebrideanexplorer.com with your ideal travel dates. I will then reply with availability and a detailed tour quotation (with absolutely no obligation to proceed at this stage) — I usually reply to enquiries within 24 hours.


P.S. — I'm often asked why this tour doesn't include Applecross and the Bealach na Ba. It's become one of the most crowded single-track roads in Scotland, and while the drive down the pass is spectacular, I've always preferred the view looking up at the Applecross hills from across Kishorn Bay. It's a quieter way to take in the same mountains.