Where can I see the Lewis Chessmen in Scotland?
The mystery of the 12th century Lewis Chessmen has captivated visitors for generations. While a large portion of the collection resides in London, you can see the Lewis Chessmen in Scotland at two locations: the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, and — most specially — at the Museum nan Eilean at Lews Castle in Stornoway, Isle of Lewis.
Intricately carved from walrus ivory and whale teeth, these expressive figures stand as some of the most important medieval artifacts ever discovered in Europe.
Where to find the Lewis Chessmen in Scotland
Following their discovery in the early 19th century, the original hoard of gaming pieces was split up. Today, the majority are held by the British Museum in London. However, for those touring Scotland, pieces can be viewed in Edinburgh and the Outer Hebrides.
While the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh displays eleven of the Chessmen, a rotating collection of at least six of the iconic chess pieces are regularly on display at Museum nan Eilean, located at Lews Castle in Stornoway, the main town in the Outer Hebrides. Viewing them here is a great experience — you are looking at them just an hour's drive away from the very Atlantic sands where they lay buried for centuries.
Discovery in Lewis and the Norse Connection
The hoard was likely uncovered around 1831 amongst the sand dunes of the parish of Uig, on the west coast of the Isle of Lewis. The collection contains pieces from at least four separate chess sets, missing just a few figures. It is thought that these pieces were probably carved in Norway in the late twelfth century. During this period, the Outer Hebrides were not part of Scotland but under Norse rule. We can imagine that the chessmen might have belonged to an important Norseman sailing the route between Scandinavia and Ireland — maybe burying his treasures in the sands of Lewis for safekeeping, never to return.
How to see the Lewis Chessmen in the Outer Hebrides
To learn more about exploring these wonderful chessmen firsthand in Stornoway — and touring the beautiful parish of Uig — take a look at these two dedicated multi-day private tours departing from Inverness for the Outer Hebrides:
P.S... As a private tour guide for over eighteen years, and a native of the Outer Hebrides, I am always asked where my favourite spot is across all my travels around the Scottish Highlands and Islands. While I can never choose a single place, I have to be honest and say Uig would definitely be in the top five – just look at the photos below!
